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The computer you already have is probably fine.In fact, as of this writing I’m still rocking a 6 year old Mac Mini in my studio. It is.The short answer is: no. I like the app, it worked great on my older iMac and MacBook Pro. ![]() Much like studios used to have tape machines and consoles each doing their own thing, you should have a separate hard drive feeding your DAW audio and not combine the two. Do not record to or mix from your internal system drive, the same hard drive that has your operating system and DAW installed on it.Instead, hook up a USB, Firewire, or Thunderbolt drive that is used only for recording to.Why? Because it will free your system drive up to just run the software, plugins, and OS. Record To (And Mix From) An External DriveThis one is so simple and so huge. And then just this month I doubled it again to 16GB. I immediately doubled it to 8GB. So here goes:If you want your DAW to have as much power as possible, then for goodness sakes, please close all other programs and applications when recording and mixing!This is simple math. I’m sure someone out there reading this needs to hear it. These have no moving parts, make no noise, and are ridiculously fast.Not only will you notice your applications and programs opening with more zip, but your computer will run with more power and speed overall.For example after swapping out my old spinning drives with SSDs and putting more RAM in my Mac Mini I was able to run a Pro Tools session with 50 audio tracks and 250 reverbs!!I thought about almost not mentioning this because to me it seems so obvious, but then I changed my mind. Replace Your Hard Drives With Solid State DrivesOne of the other more recent upgrades I made was replacing my standard 7200 RPM drives with SSDs (Solid State Drives). The point is to save all your sessions on a separate drive and pull from that when recording and mixing. It’s the only way to justify spending your hard earned money on something.So when it comes to computers for your home studio, I use a simple rule of thumb: always keep your studio computer for at least 5 years.If you are swapping out your computer every 2 or 3 years, you’re losing money. Like anything in life you purchase, your goal should be to get maximum value out of it. Why on earth would you share that with another application if you need it all for your DAW?Just in case it hasn’t sunk in yet, let’s get specific.When recording or mixing you need to close out of the following:Just close out of everything that’s not your DAW and you’ll be in good shape! The 5 Year RuleOne final thought for you my friend. What kind of computer are you using? (Specs and all) Is Your Computer Optimized?So what about you? Have you optimized your computer for your home studio?Leave a comment below and answer these two questions: With my current Mac Mini I just dumped a few hundred dollars into it to give it more life rather than replace it, but that still fits within my rule. I never buy them new, I only buy refurbished, and I always use them for 5 years minimum before I replace them. Don’t even consider it…and use W-10 Pro. With Windows 10 I suggest one bypasses W-10 Home. If you’re gonna use a p.c. Windows 10 (yeah well eventually nothing else is going to work thanks to Microsoft). Realplayer for mac video downloaderPreferably dual channel DDR4. Quite the opposite actually.Everything else? Yes, yes, yes…and more yes.RAM…absolutely. I strongly disagree with buying refurbished systems for recording these days unless the demand on the system will always be low which I doubt it always will.I mean, that’s great about 50 tracks and 250 reverbs and there is allot of knowledgeable wealth in that amazing feat of recording engineering but for me, I have heard the “you don’t need that” phrase so many times and it has never lead me to a frustration free (or even a frustration minimum) experience while writing and recording. Just wasn’t keeping up with DAW demand (Sonar Pro) so I did lay down a wad of cash for a BRAND NEW system. Photo story for mac free download32 bit is a thing of the past now)MSI Z270 Gaming Pro Motherboard. Can’t say this enough.Windows 10 Pro. For instance Avoid NVIDIA HD software like the plague! Nice, clean, digital graphics can be accomplished and even the use of 2 screens if your system is powerful enough but even the best system will suffer latency issues from trying to run eye candy AND record audio at the same time. (lordy)Isolate audio from system…on a solid state drive (SSD).GRAPHICS!!! Don’t try to go HD on ANY graphics. A spinner back-up drive for storage of 1 TB or more doesn’t hurt though.Lots of USB 2.0, 3.0,3.1, Firewire 800, Thunderbolt if you can afford the absolutely stupid cost of anything Thunderbolt. Not cheap.)SSD…No question. Best 2018 System Cleaner / Optimizer Drivers With 2(Plus I can power my town during a black-out in another grid) Seriously one doesn’t have to go to this extreme but…don’t skimp on the PSU.Corsair super quiet case with lots of air flow and 120 mil. Way overkill here but I’m willing to pay extra for peace of mind and no weird clicks or buzzes. 2 screens…no issues.2 Samsung EVO SSD’s 250 gigs each and one WD Blue 7200 RPM 1 TB for storage.EVGA 850 Watt, Platinum rated power supply. 3Ghz is becoming the minimum pretty quickly with DAW’s so…there it is.8 gigs(and climbing to between 40 and 64…depending) of dual channel DDR4.NVIDIA GT1030 graphics card that DOESN’T run NVIDIA HD drivers with 2 gigs native RAM and runs on simple MoBo (Aorus in this case) native video drivers. Core i5’s are fine but Microsoft is gonna stop supporting Kaby Lake processors (because they’re Nazis) so i5’s could be an eventual thing of the past sooner than one might think.Yes…I did say 4Ghz. So, the parts I’ve replaced from that ordeal was the motherboard and power supply. These same concepts can be applied to basically any other workstation-oriented task, such as virtualization, simulation, etc.My rig, which is a multi-purpose “do all the things” machine, is as follows:Western Digital Scorpio Blue 750GB 5400RPMSeasonic G-750 (to be replace with EVGA 750 G2)Windows 7 Ultimate (upgrading to 10 Pro eventually)Thrustmaster Ferrari Alcantara 599XX EVO RimI’ve had to rebuild this a bit once before due to power surges (actually, we got hit by lightning). Which is not meant as a “one ups a-hole” kind of comment here rather, just illustrating that after spending a bit more, and after chasing allot of refurbished equipment…seemingly endlessly I just went as “all in” as I could (not) afford so I don’t have to keep switching between right brain (creative)…left brain (logical…too much logical) just to make what I hope will be pretty sounds when all is said and done.Expect to spend between $1000.00 and $1300.00.Great article, for one. ![]()
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